The Olympic Peninsula
The Olympic Peninsula is a remarkable corner of the United States. One can find sharp peaks, rugged coastlines, temperate rainforests, and dazzling blue lakes all in one day. Over an eight-day trip, my best friend Michelle and I sought to see it all, from the bustling streets of downtown Seattle to the tide pools of Rialto Beach.
Going into this trip, the best advice we got is that the park is bigger than it looks and it'll take a long time to get from here to there. Similarly, the worst advice we got was that we shouldn't expect to see it all. On account of early planning, we were able to filter out some "travel influencer" destinations and tailor our experience to fit our off-the-beaten-path preferences. That said, this is less of an guide and more of a trip report of our experience as people who have hiked much of the Northeast and can't stand crowds or overpriced activities.
Day 1: Boston to Forks
Our morning began quite early in the Northeast. For the second June in a row, my parents got up just as early to bring Michelle and me to Logan Airport. Though the flight was long, the best part about traveling to Seattle was a direct flight from Boston. At just under 6 hours, we arrived in Seattle around 2 pm and suited up for the second half of our travel day.
The drive from the airport to our Airbnb in the heart of Forks, WA was about 4 hours. Minus the Seattle and Tacoma traffic, the drive was open cruising on scenic Route 101. If I were to repeat this trip, I would pick up dinner before leaving Tacoma, as the QFC grocery store salad I had after eating almonds the whole plane ride was not very exciting.
We went right to bed upon our arrival in Forks. Though we'd been awake and traveling for 18 hours the first day, it was exciting to know long travel days were over for the rest of our trip!
Day 2: Hoh Rain Forest
On account of our long day, we did not set an early alarm for Thursday morning. As we got ready and ate breakfast, we watched the travel time to Hoh Rain Forest tick upwards and wondered why it could be. Better yet, as we began our mere 31-mile drive to the western corner of the park, the arrival time still didn't move.
Once we got down Upper Hoh Road, we soon found ourselves in the entry queue for the trailhead. Arriving at 9:30 lent us to an hour-long wait, however, there were bathrooms, rangers giving out maps, and nobody was impatient. Despite the delay, I sincerely appreciated the result of traffic control- we easily got a parking spot, and didn't deal with any overcrowding.
We first explored the visitor center, where we learned about the animals and critters we may see on our hike. I enjoyed playing with the banana slug toys, for which there were many more than what we saw on the trail.
In the interest of a more tranquil hike, Michelle and I opted for the Hoh River Trail over some of the shorter and more signed trails, namely the Hall of Mosses. Like any National Parks trail, the first mile still had plenty of people but as we walked further into the breathtaking rain forest, passersby became far more sparse.
On our 12-mile round trip hike, we passed Mineral Creek Falls and several stunning outlooks over the glacial-blue Hoh River. We started the hike in light rain, but there was no better hike for such weather. The lush moss was ever-so-slightly different on each tree towering above us, which on their own were completely unbelievable. As for the terrain, we gained a mere 486 feet on the whole of our hike- it was wide to start, then transitioned to a neat but narrower footpath.
We had previously decided to turn around at the 5-mile island campsite, which I would recommend to anyone willing to go the distance. In traveling closer to Mount Olympus, we saw a handful of descending mountaineers and backpackers- their gear telling a story far greater than their low-elevation attire could suggest.
Our arrival at the 5-mile island was met with an unexpected break in the clouds. A young father and his three boys were fishing there and directed us to a nice log that resembled a couch. We laid back on that log longer than we'd ever stopped atop a 4000-footer or similar adventure. As the sun unexpectedly warmed my face, I enjoyed fresh glacier water from my Nalgene and hoped the clouds would vanish enough to see Mount Olympus.
Though the mighty Olympus never revealed, the increasing sunshine did provide a unique change in perspective. As we hiked back, the hike felt completely different. The moss shone a different color, the river glimmered more radiantly, and the wetness in the air changed to a warm breeze. I absolutely could not have asked for a better first day- Hoh Rainforest is worth all the hype, and I'd love to return for a more backcountry-driven trip.
Riding back into town, we were dismayed to find no grocery stores turned up on Google. Well, except for one "Beaver Store." In a desperate act, we drove to the market, which was a gas station, and did the best we could to acquire ingredients for a dinner in line with my gluten allergy. Let's just say... the leftovers never got eaten.
Day 2: Rialto Beach
Experiencing Rialto Beach fell into the fate of the tides. Low tide is the best (and arguably only) time to visit Rialto Beach. Low water levels grant access to Hole in The Wall, more comfortable beach walking, and countless tide pools! With low tide at 12, we arrived at 9 to have some extra time exploring.
Though Hole in the Wall is an ocean-facing right from the parking lot, we first trekked left to play in the rocks. The multicolored rocks felt like the little ones you could buy at the rainforest cafe as a kid, just as smooth and easy to place in hand as those artificial ones. Michelle and I walked out to the natural barrier of piled driftwood before turning around and walking towards Hole in the Wall.
The Gaia around this area is deceiving- while there looks to be a trail going from the parking lot to Hole in the Wall, there is no such thing. Rather, it is a walk on the sand that's either hard-packed and fast at low tide, or miserable at high. We walked much faster than the prior tracks and people around us did, this could be on account of most wearing sandals rather than the trail runners we'd chosen. I probably won't make many clothing suggestions in this write-up but do not wear sandals for this journey.
Though Hole in the Wall is a short 1.9 miles from the trailhead, the excitement comes a bit early. At the first feature, we stopped to explore the many tidepools. Within them, we found mussels, small fish, starfish, anemones, sea urchins, and a raccoon. Yes, a woodland raccoon.
The tidepools were one of my favorite parts of this trip, it was amazing to see all these creatures in a real setting rather than a touch tank in a loud aquarium!
After looking into dozens of tide pools, we kept on to Hole in the Wall- which was truthfully much less exciting than all the tidepools. However, we still took a cute photo and appreciated how amazing a changing tide is!
By the time we got back to the car, we saw a lot of folks starting the journey and were thankful we'd timed it so well. After some rest, we spent the rest of our day laughing at twilight merchandise and exploring the 3 stores Forks has to offer. Soon after, we faced our next challenge of securing food. On a whim, we decided to go to Thriftway, which we naturally assumed was a thrift store. We were wrong- it was a real grocery store! We had a chuckle at our completely preventable gas station dinner, then enjoyed a much better night of taco bowls & margaritas on our cottage patio.
Day 3: Kayaking on Lake Crescent, Marymere Falls, and Devil's Punchbowl
Our journey from Forks to Seqium was no boring drive. Nestled in between our two cabins is the incredible Lake Crescent. Lake Crescent is nearly 12 miles long, the second deepest lake in Washington, and shimmers with an unforgettable glacial blue. To best explore it, we rented kayaks from the historic Lake Crescent Lodge as soon as they opened.
From our check-in at the lobby, we were greeted outside by Sarah who showed us to our kayaks. We ventured west on the lake, straight down the center. We were surrounded by mountain views, rich-colored water, and the magnificent Mount Storm King. On our return, we paddled right by the shore affording unique views to sunken trees and wildflowers beside the water.
Though the paddle out had felt like the hour it was, the journey back peering into the deep water flew by. We nearly met our 4-hour time limit when we returned, but we were far from done our day! After a brief change and snack, we made a quick journey to Marymere Falls. From the Lake Crescent lodge, it was a 2.78-mile hike that was entirely flat until the very end when some nicely done steps take you up to the viewpoint.
The mossy waterfall was stunning, and accessible, and would've been just as nice to hike in foul weather! After the waterfall, we drove a ways to the Spruce Railroad Trail to access Devil's Punchbowl.
Devil's Punchbowl, a popular spot for swimming with jumping cliffs and Hawaiian Punch colored water, is one that in my opinion photographs better than it views. When we got there, it was extremely crowded and there were some folks ripping skin open with their daring jumps. I probably wouldn't go back but I'm still glad I saw it once.
Concluding our day in the Lake Crescent area, we drove over to Seqium where we'd spend most of our remaining days in Washington. The hour left flew by, especially with such a productive day behind us.
Day 4: Dungeness Spit
For whatever reason, our original itinerary baked in a day where we did nothing. Not accepting this oversight, I began poking around at what else we could do in the park and found that we'd already accounted for every attraction within reasonable driving distance. So, when I turned to Gaia the longest trail I saw was one that extended several miles into the ocean, just 15 minutes from our Sequim Airbnb.
With some further research, we found that the Dungeness Spit is not only a 5-mile trail along a beach-hook but also a National Wildlife Refuge. The spit, which is a landform made of sand and gravel extending into the ocean, is the longest in the United States and has so much to explore!
The only precaution with the Dungeness Spit is that it is crucial to go when the tide is right. We began at low tide, which was unfortunately 5 am, and were shocked at how fast it came back in. If the tide is high, one must revert to walking on uneven pieces of driftwood and large rocks at the center of the spit, rather than smooth sand. Ultimately a fear of high tide forced us to come about a mile short of the lighthouse at the end.
Getting to the ocean was a journey in itself. The trail to the spit, which weaves around a campground, is full of wildlife. We saw about 2-dozen deer before we saw the ocean, many of them frolicking fawns. Going so early did have its pros, especially in that we didn't see anyone for about 3 hours.
At various points on the spit, you could see directly over to Vancouver, watch ships come in and out of Port Angeles, and watch the birds travel in large flocks over the spit. We also spotted a bald eagle on the marsh side of the spit! Upon completion, we'd walked 9 miles and were out there just over 3 hours. I would guess we were walking pretty fast, but do not discount the effect of walking in the sand and the tides when planning a trip out to the Spit!
After our morning excursion, we spent the afternoon in Port Angeles. Though very small, we found everything we needed from locally made souvenirs to a fantastic bowl of Pho. I'll also note this was my first opportunity to procure a latte this trip- which just isn't as good without maple syrup. We also stopped at the Olympic National Park visitor center, where we read up on upcoming events and bought some postcards.
Later in the day, we took advantage of our rental's stunning outdoor patio and cooked up some shrimp and mango slaw tacos!
Day 5: A Whole Lot of Hurricane Ridge
Morning came early as we departed for Port Angeles at 6 am. We had read that parking is limited atop Hurricane Ridge, and I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to get there early. Our visit point, Hurricane Hill, also includes a windy single-car road that I would have hated to do in heavier traffic.
Dissimilarly, even though Hurricane Ridge Road gained over 4000 feet, it was easy to drive regardless of traffic flow. As we pulled into one of the few spots for Hurricane Hill, we started up the paved path with many early risers. This path is unique in that it's entirely paved, however, do not let that fool you into thinking it is a cruise. The route ascends 750 feet, much of it all at once, and at times sits right atop steep falls. It's not that it's scary, rather it should not be perceived as an ordinary bike path.
Hurricane Hill Trail had some epic views over the Olympic range, some nice spots to see Olympic marmots, and also brought us right to some snow bowls and glaciers! At the top, we saw plenty of deer, one of which crossed right in front of me for the perfect photo. We sat atop Hurricane Hill for some time, half because we were in no rush and half to let the clouds clear out. After a good hour, they certainly did. The Bailey Range was just breathtaking, especially with the deep "Olympic Grand Canyon" between us. I would happily cast this hike as the best view of the trip!
After an afternoon intermission, Michelle and I journeyed back to Hurricane Ridge around 11 pm. The day prior, we read about an astronomy show at the previous location of the Hurricane Ridge Visitor Center. We were hesitant at first, as that would be a pretty clever kidnapping trap, but the rangers we spoke with highly recommended the show.
Thankfully, driving up Hurricane Ridge in the dark was not nearly as scary as I imagined. When we got up top, we were greeted with much cooler temperatures than we had in the morning and were joined by about 30 other guests. After learning about the no white-light rules, we listened to Indigenous stories about the constellations and learned what we may see that evening. With two massive telescopes, we got to see nebulas, constellations, and star clusters. My favorite was the swan nebula, which formed the perfect outline of a bird.
In addition to the telescope views, we also picked out a lot of stars and sights once our eyes adjusted to the night. My acquired night vision granted me incredible views of the Milky Way over the Olympic mountains. While it did require some planning to get to the ridge so late at night, I would highly recommend this experience to people of all ages.
Day 6: Mount Storm King
Mount Storm King lived up to its reputation and more. Though we could've, and maybe should've started earlier than 8 am, we did not see too many folks on the trail on the ascent. Right from the get-go, when you leave the Marymere access trail, the trail is very steep. It does not start scary, however the switchbacks had me more out of breath than I anticipated as a regular hiker.
Just under two miles in, there is a terrific view that is followed by a more mellow section just before the maintained trail ends. If you are scared of heights, pulling on ropes, or loose sand- stop here. Michelle and I, however, were feeling daring and decided to continue up the unmaintained trail to the rope section.
While pictures do not do it justice, the steep portion of this trail is deceiving. On paper, the elevation doesn't look all that bad. Rather, it is the trail bed texture and narrowness that make this stretch so treacherous. Even after the ropes, there is a very short "knife edge" section to walk that the group in front of us did in a crawl.
Once we reached our final destination, the Storm King viewpoint of Lake Crescent, I was surprised there wasn't "room" on the summit. Even though we wanted to take pictures and sprawl out, the sharp rocks we were balancing on were not too inviting. I must admit, that the view made the journey well worth it. Grasping not only the size but the perfect shape of Lake Crescent was amazing. It was especially fascinating to pick out Devil's Punchbowl, as its teal hue stuck out well even from thousands of feet above.
When we turned around, it was much more difficult. Not only because we were sliding down the loose footing, but also because there were so many more people as we neared mid-morning. My hands and clothes were aggressively stained tan from the ropes and sand patches we hit along the way. It was particularly difficult to switch off the rope position with strangers who were ascending as we were descending. For this reason, I cannot suggest timing this trip appropriately enough.
After we got down, fighting crowds, of course, we decided that in the spirit of doing unexpected things, we would jump into the 54-degree Lake Crescent. Still in my sandals, Michelle & I jumped off the end of the dock into the chilly waves and then repeated it three more times. Though we rarely take the time for a cold plunge after a hike, Lake Crescent is the perfect spot to change that.
To round out our time in Sequim, Michelle and I spent the evening at The James Center for Performing Arts. Every Tuesday in the summer, the town puts on a free concert and it was just so heartwarming. Seeing all the community members, a nice mix of retirees and young families, all join together with their adorable dogs was so lovely. The show itself was fantastic too! The Bread & Gravy band was talented and humorous- they did a version of Piano Man with comedy add-ins that were just hysterical. Although this is far from a tourist attraction, our introduction to Sequim was a wonderful part of our trip.
Day 7: Mt. Rainier
The drive from Mt. Rainier was far more demanding than I imagined it would be. Though only three hours, several jam-packed days behind me had me hangry and on half speed. This hanger, unfortunately, was only counteracted by 7 hardboiled eggs as we had groceries to finish.
As we pulled into Rainier, I could see why they had a reservation system in place. We made our 7-9 am reservation about 3 months prior, which they can't let you through the gate without. When we got through the gates, we headed to Longmire. Due to fatigue and a general disinterest in elevation gain, we decided to have our first-ever "total tourist" day.
Longmire was the perfect place to peruse driveable views and short walking trails. We first embarked on the Long Meadow Springs trail where we saw hot springs, remnants of the hot springs retreat, and an old homestead. The historic trail was quiet and enjoyable. We followed the path to the Nisqually Suspension Bridge, which was somehow wide enough for a car! We caught slight views of Rainier and marveled at how much sediment was in the quick-moving Nisqually River.
Instead of going on a real hike, we drove up to Paradise, where we had the most incredible views of Rainier. For how many days out of the year the mountain is hiding, I still haven't accepted how lucky we were to have such a perfect day. There was still a lot of snow at the visitor center, so we didn't venture too much closer to the towering white dome ahead of us. Rather, we ventured slightly up the Deadhorse Creek Trail (which is paved, like many of the visitor center trails) and picked a nice bench to have a hodge podge lunch.
From there, we walked to the Paradise Visitor Center where we read all the information exhibits, looked through binoculars at the mountain, and learned Rainier's history. We then took a drive around Steven's Canyon, which unfortunately I could not describe as my eyes were glued on the cliff-side road. This road is closed in the wintertime, and it is no wonder why! This felt like the driving equivalent of coming around the banks of the Colorado when I was in the Grand Canyon!
Should I return to Rainier, I think it'll be for a mountaineering trip. It was breathtaking, but I got the impression much of the hiking I could do without gear would leave me wanting more. But for a guided trip, however... this is probably a new bucket list spot for me!
On our way out of Rainier and back to Seattle, we stopped for some Rainier cherries which were to die for. A $2 cup of cherries beat a gas station bag of chips for me any day!
Day 8: Seattle
As this is not a travel blog, I will spare the details of the gluttony and expensive gift shopping that occurred in Pike's Place, Seattle. I will however, encourage anyone who does a trip similar to the above to spend a day in Seattle- we were so much more excited for ice cream cones, wine spritzes, and public transportation after our incredible week in the parks.
In retrospect:
Now over a month past this trip, I couldn't be happier with how Michelle and I planned it. Our promptness in preparing itineraries, reaching out to friends, and reading travel blogs allowed us to accomplish so much in a short time. Further, we even did a tiny bit of relaxing in between which is rare for us in life and on vacation. We certainly could've done this cheaper with more camping, but with both AirBNBs being under $120 a night, it was well worth the splurge for convenience and a full kitchen.
It was especially important to have this time together as it was our 6-month farewell as work and college pulled us apart when we flew to opposite corners of the country after the trip. 8-days with a friend is certainly a mighty relationship test, and I could not be happier/thankful that Michelle and I have pulled it off beautifully twice now.
Happy hiking everyone, I can't wait to hear about your trip to the Pacific Northwest!
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